Orange Roughy Florentine at Pasta Villa

ANNETTE LEIN Guido's Pasta Villa Address: 1313 E. Ridge Road, Irondequoit. Cuisine: Italian-American. Serving: Lunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner, 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday and holidays. Atmosphere: Casual-formal. Full linen, but casual dress is the norm. Prices: Lunch, $4.95 to $7.95; dinner $6.95 to $16.95. Handicapped access: Yes. Smoking: In bar only. Alcohol: Full bar, wine list, beer. Phone: 266-2676.

By Karen Miltner
Staff food writer

(August 17, 2000) -- Paula Wright knows she can count on two things when she visits Pasta Villa. First, that she'll meet neighborhood friends and acquaintances. Second, that she'll have the best seafood dish -- Orange Roughy Florentine -- she's tasted in the city. ''And believe me, I frequent some of the best restaurants in Rochester and surrounding areas,'' says Wright.

Orange roughy, a white fish from New Zealand, is prepared three ways at Pasta Villa: broiled ($11.95); French-style, with a lemon-butter-sherry-wine sauce ($12.95); and Florentine, which embellishes the French style by serving it on a bed of escarole ($14.95). Wright prefers the latter. ''It's always just fabulous, never fishy-tasting,'' she says. ''It's always very meaty and flaky and flavorful.''

The entree comes with soup or salad and pasta.

''It's the kind of place where you always see someone you know. And the owner (Jesse Guido) always makes you feel welcome.''

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